Day 4_Marseille

Marseille is the oldest city in France at 2600 years.  It was originally established by the Greeks in 600
B.C.  As the largest port town, it was the first to receive the Black Plague in 1348 losing 15,000 of its 25,000 member population (remember the Black Plague was brought by rats ((who were on ships) and Marseille has lots of ships).  During this 2600 year period, there has been much construction and deconstruction.  During WW2 Hitler razed over 2000 homes in his attempt to fortify the bay.  The 1950s saw unprecedented growth  and reurbanization in its attempt to rebuild this section of the city.  History like this creates both new and old places in this city.

Today was the first day with my students.  Meeting them in the historic Le Panier district (with some buildings dating to 1100) in this former Medieval village, it felt like the Amazing Race as each group of kids found our meeting place  ("you are the first to arrive....").  Rain, hail, lightning and thunder prevailed in this coastal southern town near such warm icons as St. Tropez (who would have thought hail--we are not in Colorado?) and we hid in the alcoved arches of the Le Vielle Charite, the first building built for the homeless in this city.  We spent the afternoon and early evening visting 3 different parks from different eras:  Parc Longchamps (1869), Parc 26e Centenaire (2004) and Jardin de la Magalone (1880s). All had interesting aspects to contribute to the advance of park design.  One question we raised was:  can a park be successful without grass?  As much as designers attempt to move away from this unsustainable plant in Mediterranean climates, it provides a needed resource for recreation

Our ten hour long day of walking, thinking, (some complaining), and sketching ended in a dinner party at my apartment on the ocean.  We bought fruit, bread, vegetables, pasta, wine, olives, cheese, chocolate and cookies at a tiny market by the apartment and shared the whole, listening to French music and watching the ocean and sun set over the Isle d'If..  I have to admit it's a challenge for me to maintain a professional authority (?) while at the same time allowing for philosophical ideas and moments of serendipity that make a lifetime of memories.